Heavy Mettle

On to the next journey

One of my favorite taglines to say around here is "Uganda: Where Anything Is Possible" (second only to "Uganda: The World Is Your Toilet"). Just when you think, "There's no way that can work," someone finds a way. This can be both a blessing and a curse. I've been stuffed in car taxis where the driver will manage to cram 10 people into a Toyota Corolla (this includes what I like to call a "Siamese ssebo" or two people in the driver's seat) and someone literally sitting on the hood of a traveling car. Anything is possible! Bed frames to bicycles to other motorcycles carried on the back of a motorcycle. Anything is possible! Just stole over $60 million from the government in fraudulent road contracts? Again, anything is possible!

This will be my last post as a Peace Corps Volunteer in Uganda. Last words are always the hardest to write, they are a time of self-reflection and lessons learned. I've struggled with how to reflect on my last two years here in Uganda. Anyone who has ever served in the Peace Corps knows that it can be one of the most challenging yet rewarding experiences. This sounds trite since everyone loves to quote "The hardest job you'll ever love". This has certainly been a tough two years, a time filled with self-doubt, frustration, personal loss and illness. But in the meantime, I've learned about self-reliance, flexibility and how to smile during difficult times.

During my last week at school, I was talking with some of the teachers, who were curious about when I would start having children. I explained that I wanted to wait until I was in my 30s, giving Jim and I some time to enjoy married life. One of the teachers asked, "But what about when Jim wants to have kids? He will decide." We talked about how culturally a man in Uganda decides when he wants children and how many he wants. This was a stark reminder of several things: a) you learn something new everyday b) there are certain cultural aspects with which I will never be ok and c) I like sharing my point of view. I told my staff that with most American couples, they decide together when to start a family and the number of children. I also talked about how it's my body, therefore shouldn't a woman have the power to decide? There will just be some things we don't agree on, and I've finally learned that's alright.

I'm looking forward to visiting Uganda in a few years and seeing how things have developed. Uganda is one of the world's youngest countries, with over half the population under the age of 15. With this explosion in population, it will be interesting to see how politics and development progress in Uganda. I've learned countless lessons from Ugandans, including a whole new meaning of community, an unwavering faith in God, the true meaning of humility, and astounding resourcefulness and adaptability. 

5 Things I will miss about Uganda:

1. Kabale's weather

2. Laughter

3. Bakiga dance

4. Drumbeats on Sunday morning

5. The rope-swing at Lake Bunyonyi

5 Things I will certainly not miss:

1. That high-pitched, nasal "How are you?!"

2. Weird meat

3. Public transport

4. Posho

5. Church

A big thank you to everyone who has read and supported my blog over the years, and for your contribution in sending me to Washington, D.C. in September for a transformative week. I'll continue to write once I get home, so stay tuned. 

Thank you for the care packages, the phone calls and emails, the sympathy hugs and to those who came to visit. And a big thank you to my fiancé Jim who has seen me through so many ups and downs. #jimandjulia2015 !

Thank you Uganda for so many things. It's been a wild ride.

Until next time

Mind the RUMP

Taylor teaching P5-P7 girls about the female reproductive system, menstrual cycle and reusable menstrual pads

One of the biggest challenges facing teenage girls in Ugandan schools is a high rate of absenteeism, especially compared to boys. For a long time, this remained one of the biggest mysteries to development workers as to why girls were missing so much school. It was the biggest secret that everyone knew about: girls stay home one week out of the month when they are on their menstrual periods (MP). Supplies such as tampons and maxi pads aren't a viable option for many girls since they are both expensive and disposable. Therefore, it is easier to stay home for a week and spare the embarrassment of going to school (we've all been there ladies.) Girls are already at a huge disadvantage here in Uganda, although big strides have been made in the past to be more inclusive of females. This was one area where we could solve a problem using local materials and make a reusable product. Reusable Menstrual Pads (RUMPs) are made from local materials, using cloth, ribbon, 2 towels and a needle and thread. As simple as that. The pad has two towels that can be changed out and washed, and the pad lasts for up to a year. A much more feasible solution than buying a box of maxi pads. 

My friend Taylor came out to my primary school to do a RUMPs workshop with our girls, ages 12-15. She did a short session on the female reproductive system and the menstruation cycle. We also invited a dozen students from the PTC to come observe the workshop and lend a hand to the girls. We sent them home with a kit to make their own and teach someone else how to make it. 

Each female pupil received a kit with enough material to sew two pads and four towels. We started first with sewing the pad: two pieces of cloth in the shape of cross, one on top of the other, with a piece of ribbon on each end. The girls sewed all the way around the edges of the cross shape, leaving a small gap at the end. Taylor had brought a visiting friend with her, as well as two others PCVs, so we had plenty of helpers around the room making sure the girls were sewing correctly. After the pad shape was sewn, they flipped the pad inside out, making the ribbon on the outside and then sewing the gap closed. Then a button was sewed on the wing, and the towel placed inside the ribbon holders. Easy as 1-2-3. 

Afterwards, Taylor spoke about the importance of washing the towel daily and leaving it in the sun to dry. This reduces the chance of any infection. We briefed the PTC students and had them talk individually to each table to answer any questions. Taylor also spoke about how easy it is to make a reusable menstrual pad with fabric scraps at home or from tailoring shops.

Why is this project important? It allows girls who would otherwise stay home to go to school on their MPs. RUMPs is one of the biggest Peace Corps initiatives because it relates to gender equity, income-generating activities and health. RUMPs workshops are always a good opportunity to answer questions about female reproduction, menstruation, pregnancy and menstrual hygiene. At Camp LION, Elyse taught our RUMPs session to both boys and girls. She fielded questions about menstruation, pregnancy, how to make a reusable menstrual pad. She asked the boys why they thought they were also in the session, and not just for the girls. Knowledge is power, but RUMPs can be a great income-generating activity. 

This was my final project at the primary school, since my time here in Uganda is soon coming to an end. I will leave my home here in Bukinda in early December, travel for a few weeks for a COS trip and then be back in the US for Christmas.

Labeling the female reproductive system

With our RUMPs kits!

Materials in each RUMP kit

Assembling the pad. Each girl will sew around all four edges, including the ribbons, leaving a small gap. Then you flip the pad inside out, and sew a button on the wing to fasten around the knickers.

Assembling the pads

Our PTC students talking to girls individually about the pad, menstrual hygiene and MPs

Know Your Status

Testing over 185 students for HIV at the PTC

Last Saturday, we had the AIDS Information Center come to the PTC for a day of HIV information and testing. I worked with AIC Kabale to organize the event with all the students. We had a team of 6 come from AIC to facilitate sessions on HIV transmission and prevention, and a team of 20 living-positive drama members to perform skits for the students. They sang folk songs and performed skits in local language about the importance of wearing condoms, knowing your status and understanding the basics of HIV. The AIC did a great job of fielding questions from students, from everything about how to wear a condom to questions about unprotected sex. To assure anonymity, we had students submit written questions and then answered them in front of the student body. It was a really productive morning, especially since these students don't have a safe outlet to ask questions about their bodies, sex, masturbation, condoms. This is one reason that I love Peace Corps camps so much is that they provide that safe outlet for Ugandan youth. We also had to keep it PG at the PTC since the administration is vehemently against any talk about condoms or how to stay protected during sex. It makes it hard to give knowledge to students, many of which are sexually active or are at least curious about it. 

After lunch, the AIC set up a testing and counseling area for HIV testing. It was an optional activity but I am pleased to say that over half the student body tested for HIV, with only one testing positive for HIV. That is a great outcome, not only to have students test themselves but to have such a low rate of HIV among those tested. I count the day as a great success, especially spending the day with the PTC students and the great staff at AIC. 

Performing skits about HIV transmission and prevention

One of our living-positive members speaking to students

The AIC team

The blood sample is placed on a rapid-response kit and shows results within five minutes

With The AIC team

Our drama team 

50 Years of Peace Corps in Uganda

Ambassador DeLisi speaking about Peace Corps' 50 years in Uganda

This week our Peace Corps post celebrated 50 years in country. That's right, Peace Corps has been working in Uganda since 1964, with a few hiccups. Volunteers were evacuated in 1971 due to an unstable political climate (this guy) and again in 1999 due to major security threats. We had a regional celebration down here in Kisoro, or what I like to call Uganda's back pocket. 

About 50 volunteers from the southwest and western regions came down for the event. Our volunteers organized an awesome event, including a visit from the US Ambassador to Uganda, Scott DeLisi, and other prominent community figures. A highlight of the day was going to Mutolere Secondary School with our friend Carl, who was a Peace Corps volunteer back in 1970-71. This was his first time returning to his school where he taught over 40 years ago. He encountered his old colleagues and students, and saw his old stomping grounds. Ambassador DeLisi read a story to some primary school students and planted some tree seedlings at the school.
Afterwards, we went to Virunga Engineering Works' workshop to see the expanded workshop and see how the improved cookstoves are manufactured. Jim and Bruce (VEW's new Peace Corps volunteer) talked about how many hectares of forest is saved a year using this technology in large-scale cooking operations, such as schools and refugee centers. Peace Corps Volunteers at Virunga Engineering have worked with over 20 schools in the last year, saving the schools, on average, 1.5 million shillings per term and preserving about 476 hectares of forest or the equivalent of an area 1.5 times the size of New York’s Central Park. Check out my post here for more information on VEW.
Next we headed to Kisoro's Tourist Hotel for speeches and entertainment. We had a performance by some local secondary school students who performed some songs and local Bufumbira dancing. We heard from the LC5 Chairman and Ambassador DeLisi, who spoke about Peace Corps 50 years in Uganda and the numerous projects that we've done as volunteers. He gave an awesome shout-out to Jim and Bruce working at Virunga Engineering Works, as well as projects like Bwindi's gorilla trekking and Bukhonzo joint coffee co-op and youth camp this August.
We also welcomed our new Volunteers for our ritual Welcome Weekend for newly sworn-in Volunteers in the region. We celebrated with a barbecue down at Lake Mutanda.

Max Gold talking about the VEW cookstove project

Audrey reading to a group of students at St. George primary school

David from Nyanz'ibiri (The Cave) with his new gorilla!

Touring the VEW workshop

Ambassador DeLisi and his wife picking out their gorillas!

Loucine, Audrey and PCV Carl at his old school Mutolere

Sheba

Leija and me!

Hikers climbing to the top of the crater

Mt. Mukaino in Congo at dusk (photos by Jim Tanton)

Blogging It Home

Proud to represent Uganda in Washington, D.C.! 

Once again, a big thank you to everyone who helped out and voted for my blog last month during the Blog It Home contest. I couldn't have done it without everyone's help, and every vote counted. Peace Corps' Office of the Third Goal flew me to Washington DC for a week of events around the capital. I went to the White House, met with my congressional representatives, spoke French on  Voice of America (which was broadcasted to over 170 million people in West Africa), spoke to Girl Scouts and school assemblies, and presented my blog to HQ staff on our last day. It was a fabulous week and I'm so grateful that I was able to go. In between all these meetings and speeches was endless (truly!) sushi platters, draught beers and iced coffees and meeting new friends. 

We were nine Volunteers total who were flown to DC for this event: Sara from Guinea, Keith and Heather from China, Anna from Cameroon, Jill from Albania, Erica from Senegal, Bronwen from the Dominican Republic and Christine from Thailand. We quickly all got along since we had so much in common, especially as a group of (almost) all females. Keith was a really good sport :) . One of the things I enjoyed most about the week was hearing not only about all the different countries where Peace Corps Volunteers serve, but hearing from other bloggers about how they use writing as a way of educating Americans about where they live. We all had different styles, different angles and motivations for blogging, but at the end of the day the message was clear: this is the best way to give a glimpse of what my life is like in our respective countries. 

Christine, our blogger from Thailand, tries to make a video once a week on different cultural aspects of Thailand. She wants people to know more about Thailand than beaches, riding elephants and full-moon parties. Sara writes about Guinea to offer another glimpse of life in Guina, other than what is being spread on the news about the Ebola outbreak. Keith and Heather had my favorite blog title: Sponge and Slate. When we asked them why they chose this name for their blog, Heather explained that Keith wanted to be like a sponge and soak up everything there is to know about China, while Heather wanted a clean slate and a new adventure. I think it is such a clever name. 

DC was fast-paced and it was definitely unsettling at first. I went home one year ago for my cousin's wedding but to be honest, this week in DC felt like the first time back in the US in two years. I was completely out of my element, having come from the village where my water and power went out so I couldn't bathe for three days. All of a sudden, I was staying in the Hilton Garden Inn with endless hot water, room service a phone call away and a door that I couldn't figure out how to open for about ten minutes.

The first night I arrived in DC, I went out to sushi (surprise!) and then walked ten blocks to the Lincoln Memorial at dusk. I hadn't been back there in three years and I've never been there after dark. I was also told that somewhere in one of his speeches is a typo in the engraving, and I was determined to find it. If there's two things I love, it's Abe Lincoln and finding grammatical errors. The Lincoln Memorial was spectacular at night, all lit up and full of people. It was a magical place, I could have stayed there for hours. I bought a pack of Bubbalicious gum and sat on the steps chewing' my bubble gum (never did find that typo tho). 

Over the course of the week, we met with people at the White House, our congressional leaders, the Girl Scouts, the ONE campaign, Smithsonian magazine, a Diplomat-in-Residence and spoke at a few school assemblies. It was jam-packed week, but so much fun. I loved meeting new people and making new contacts, as well as talking to the public about what it really means to be a Peace Corps volunteer.

It was a wonderful way to reflect on my service, talking about so many different projects to so many groups of people. I talked about my village in Bukinda and my primary school, I spoke to youth groups about our Camp LION, I spoke to Girl Scouts about RUMPs (reusable menstrual pads) and I spoke to the public about Uganda's beautiful game parks and adventuring. It was a great way to look back at two years and reflect on not only on all the things I've learned, but all the ways I've changed.

Speaking (in French) on the radio at Voice of America. Our segment was broadcasted to over 170 million people across West Africa.

Meetings at the White House to talk about Peace Corps and our blogging experience

I think you can see my lip prints on the glass...

Speaking to the public at MLK Library about Uganda

Gaelle and me at my booth at MLK Library to show some things from Uganda

My future home

West Wing with Christine and Sara

Live from the West Wing!

At Powell Elementary School, teaching the kids our local handshake

Powell School: demonstrating how we carry things

Powell School, balancing water on their heads!

Bronwen (Dominican Republic) had the kids make up a baseball game using household objects

My favorites: Keith and Ryan!

Camp LION and a Tidal Wave of Good News

Camp LION
(photos by Jim Tanton)

Well, my eye is still twitching from lack of sleep after directing Camp LION, if that's any indication of that week. I've now had two weeks to recover and catch up on sleep (and my blog), but my lower lashes are still twitching and I officially look like a crazy person.
Whew.
Camp LION (Leaders In Our Nation) is the first of its kind, directed by four PCVs and one Ugandan co-director. Eric, Matthew, Cindy, Immaculate and I wanted a leadership camp that emphasized and developed leadership skills for Ugandan youth. And that's exactly what we did.
Camp LION is a regional camp, meaning that our campers (both male and female, between the ages of 15-19) came from eastern Uganda, including Mbale, Soroti, Kumi, Tororo and Jinja district. A brief history of camps in Peace Corps Uganda: the typical model is to have a girls' camp (GLOW-Girls Leading Our World) and boys' camp (BUILD- Boys of Uganda In Leadership Development) operating simultaneously but separately during school break, and then coming together on the last day for Gender Equality Day. These camps usually focus on life skills, reproductive health, malaria, RUMPs (reusable menstrual pads) and HIV/AIDS awareness, but with relatively little emphasis on how to "take camp home" and affect others in their communities.
That's where our brainchild for Camp LION came in, to have sessions that focused on skills that make a leader, such as public speaking, goal setting, money management, as well as a big emphasis on community service. The highlight of our camp was an unprecedented activity: Volunteer Day. Matthew Raymond, my co-director, envisioned having our campers go out in the community and volunteer for the morning, such as planting trees, cleaning up rubbish and volunteering at a local hospital and an orphanage. Our first two days of camp were focused around sessions on leadership, IGAs (Income-Generating Activities) and reproductive health (from condom demonstrations to menstrual cycles to sexual health discussions). On Wednesday morning, we went out into the community and volunteered all morning.

Volunteer Day: tree-planting around Mbale

Volunteer Day: volunteering at Mbale Hospital Children's Ward

Our campers generated a lot of interest from the locals, who would stop and say, "What are you doing? What are you planting those trees for?" In some cases, some people decided to even join in. We were so excited by the notion that if this much interest in community service could be generated in one morning, imagine what these kids could do back home. That morning, I went with a group of campers to children's home for orphans and vulnerable children. We spent the morning playing games, reading books, doing arts and crafts and singing songs. I was so proud of our campers who really took initiative, bonded with the children and by the end were leading their own camp-style "Reflection" session with the kids.

Thursday was another block of sessions, and then Friday was our "Presentation Day." Campers were able to choose a topic from the week's sessions and come up with an "elevator speech" to pitch to their communities. We wanted campers to feel prepared to go back to their communities and present a topic to the community leadership, such as the Parent-Teacher Association, the LC1 or community elders. After spending a week honing their leadership skills and doing community service, they were able to practice how to "take camp home" and pitch an idea to the community. For example, some campers, including males, enjoyed the session on how to make RUMPs (reusable menstrual pads). Many girls in Uganda (and elsewhere) miss a significant amount of school when they have their menstrual periods. The boys knew that while they couldn't use RUMPs for themselves, they were useful for sisters, friends, mothers and aunts. It is also an Income-Generating Activity to sew a pad from old fabric and sell it to the community, so they got to practice how they would "pitch" this idea to people back home.

Another innovation to our camp was the creation of a Counselor-In-Training (CIT) program. I had been a CIT back during my summer camp days, but it had never crossed my mind to do at a Ugandan youth leadership camp. Another one of Matthew's million-dollar ideas. We had three CITs in our program, all former campers and who were on their way to be counselors. Theresa, Semu and Brian were stellar CITs, always willing to help and interact with campers. They helped with logistics and got to shadow each camper group. The CIT program was great for another reason-- we had one of Ugandan counselors drop out during camp, and Brian was able to step in as a counselor.

As a note, I'm feeling very proud of our Peace Corps post during these last round of camps- as Volunteers, we put together three innovative camps unique to Uganda. Camp LION, Camp Omwani (an Ag camp focused on coffee production and facilitated by Bukonzo Joint) and Girl Tech (a science camp for girls).

In between sessions, we had a lot of fun. There was cheering, chanting, dancing within our eight camper groups. We had relay races, team-building activities, Afrikan yoga sessions with Ife, drumming circles, bonfires, and night art. Night Art is a great activity led by our three InMovement facilitators, where they have campers doing interactive creative art. That night we were all the in the dining hall, the tables were covered in cloth and markers, crayons, and paintbrushes were strewn across all the tables. We had music and dancing, while the campers and counselors were given prompts for what to draw. For example, I got to pose with two other counselors and the campers had to draw us in one minute. Jim went up with two other bearded men and they had to draw their beards. Another was to draw the person in front of you in 5 years, without looking down.

The last activity of Night Art, little did I know that my life was about to change. For all those who wanted to know the background of that night, here it is. Jim got called up to the center, and then I got called up too. Bagonza, the night's MC, asked us both to strike a pose. I did my best yoga Dancer Pose while Jim goes down on one knee. Hmmm, I thought. What kind of weird pose is he doing? Are we doing some sort of couples' pose, Dirty Dancing style?

It took me a full five seconds to realize what was happening and that Jim was proposing. He told me that he had already called my parents to ask for their blessing and then said those four magic words. I really don't remember the rest, I don't think I even said yes or remembered that there was some sort of ring involved. I just remember feeling so much love that night, as I looked around at all my friends crying, hugging us both and saying congratulations. I happened to be the only dry eyes in the room that night, I was just too excited! And then we had the most epic, monster dance party as we jumped about the room, everybody cheering us on. It was an incredible night. Not many camps witness a proposal--some of the campers didn't even believe it was real, and asked their counselors the next morning if we were reenacting a scene from a movie. Ha! In a place where love and marriage is very different than our culture, it was nice to have a scene of true love, an engagement and a healthy, loving relationship.

Jim and I met in here in the Peace Corps, as many of you know, but never in my wildest dreams did I expect to get engaged here. I can't imagine a more perfect way to begin our lives together.

And when it rains, it pours! One last piece of good news. Thanks to everyone's help, I am a winner for Peace Corps' Blog It Home contest and will be going to D.C. for a week of events in September. Thank you again to everyone for the votes and for passing it on. I will be sharing a bit about Uganda and life on this side of the world.

Ife leading a.m. warm-up Afrikan yoga session

Country Director Loucine visits Camp LION for the day and gets her groove on

Brainstorming: campers had 5 minutes to design and make
the tallest structure out of straws and masking tape

Eric "Fixer" Grayson jumping in on a session on HIV stigma

RELAY RACE! My favorite. 

Jenna helping to answer questions during a session on myths about HIV

Volunteer Day: reading to sick children at Mbale Hospital

Our Volunteer Day list of accomplishments

Sulai, a local businessman and community activist, talks to our campers about community service

Checking out the materials to make reusable menstrual pads (RUMPs)

Proper condom use demonstration

Bonfire and dancing. A lot of dancing.

Camp LION's ballin' team of directors.

Our Wall of Leaders for Camp LION's staff and counselors.
We each wrote our favorite leader who inspires us and why.

Immaculate and me, co-directors and co-goofballs.

Our t-shirts. Courtesy of yours truly.

Camp LION

Mandala-making.

Night Art

"Now draw with your neighbor's right hand" -- Night Art.