Thursday, 27 February 2014

Ode to Goats

The world's most annoying goat outside of Jim's house.
On behalf of Claire, I would like to write an ode to the greatness of goats. 
This all started when Claire came to visit me here in East Africa over the holidays. She flew into Kigali, Rwanda, a good place to start for anyone visiting Africa for the first time. We first travelled 4 hours north to the Ugandan border, to the Virunga volcanoes, home of the last of the mountain gorillas. We climbed Mt. Muhavura (4107m) and had a pretty heavy dose of getting our butts kicked. The conditions were hard on the volcano, believe it or not we even got caught in a hail storm on the way down. We climbed with Jim and his friend Curt, out visiting from Boulder, CO. The boys made it to the way, but Claire and I stopped before the second hut to retain some shreds of dignity. Claire also suffered from altitude sickness since Kisoro is over 2000m high, but as for me, I have no excuse as to why the climb was so hard! 




The following day we all traveled back to Kigali to see off Curt and to celebrate New Years Eve. Jim, Claire and I had a fabulous time, hitting up a bar in central Kigali and rocking out to 90s hits such as "How Will I Know" by Whitney Houston and "I Saw the Sign" by Ace of Base. It was low-key, but still fabulous. Especially lip-syncing to Mariah Carey greatness.

After New Years, we hired a car out to western Rwanda to Kibuye on Lake Kivu, a relaxing lakeside little town. We enjoyed its magnificent views and chill atmosphere, and met our brethren, Peace Corps Rwanda volunteers. We stayed at Saint Jean guesthouse, which is perched on a peninsula in the lake for a few quiet, relaxing days and then went back to Kigali to pick up the rest of the Lingham gang. 

We had time to list off all the reasons why goats are the best: 
-They make great friends and great pets
-They're adorable 
-They have giblets that give them power
- They love climbing things and always being the king of the hill
-They can climb almost anything, like that dam in Italy when they're standing on little pegs
-They can hike
-Make delicious meats
-Pellets for poop is easy clean up
-"Bahhh!" is a ridiculous way to get attention! 
-Most of them don't really believe that they're really goats 

Making new friends


Friday, 31 January 2014

The Linghams in Africa....The Linghams went to Africa?!

The Linghams chimp trekking in Kyambura Gorge, Queen Elizabeth National Park
Photos courtesy of Jim Tanton
Well, that happened. I miss my family already, it was so utterly wonderful to have them visit me here in Uganda.

They flew to Kigali, Claire (who came a week early, little stinker!) and I held up our "Welcome to Africa" sign that I used to welcome Jim's friend Curt, Claire and now the Linghams. We had so many visitors over the holidays, it was great. We welcomed my parents, my older sister Lillian and Jim's mom, Carol to Kigali. We stayed for two nights in Kigali, visiting the genocide memorial museum, the Craft Co-op for some African treasures and Meze Fresh for some Chipotle-style burritos. After adjusting a bit in Kigali , we set off for the border to Uganda and right to Lake Bunyonyi. I loved everyone's enthusiasm about the place, asking a lot of good questions (many of which, between Jim and I, we didn't know the answers) and making me look at my home in a new way. We stayed on Itambira Island at Byoona Amagara, renting out a family cottage and Geodome. Highlights include going off the "lope-swing" (!!!!) and drinking a lot of wine. A lot of wine.
Welcoming le petit Buddha to Kigali

After Byoona, we headed south to Kisoro to Jim's new site, and the home of the Virunga mountains. Claire, Dad, Lillian and I climbed Mt Sabinyo (almost killed ya Dad, sorry) and had a phenomenal(ly) long day. Mt Sabinyo borders three countries (Uganda, Rwanda, Congo) and has three distinct peaks on the top. The third peak is covered in steep ladders that can cause one's heart to skip a beat. My sisters rocked it, espeically Lillian, who did that hike with barely anything to eat save for the world's smallest granola bar (she's gluten free, in case you haven't heard, which would be weird, if you haven't..). It was a cold, rainy way down, we practically slid our way down the mountain. We got stuck in another hail storm, second time for me and Claire, and were ducking from lightning right above us. 
Jim and Carol went gorilla trekking that day in Bwindi Impenetrable Forest while my mom relaxed at Volcanoes Safari Lodge in Mgahinga, up in the mountains.

We got our kitenge fix in Kisoro, picking out colorful fabrics to make clothing, tablecloths, even scarfs. We found some time to play Salad Bowl and getting in some quality game time. 
From Kisoro, we headed up to Queen Elizabeth National Park. We stopped first at my site in Bukinda to see my house and my primary school. The school was closed for holidays so unfortunately we didn't get to meet many folks, but it was special to show them around my stomping grounds. 

The drive out to QENP is one of my favorite in the world-- as you're driving west, the escarpment drops off and the Rift Valley is as flat as an ocean. Behind the Rift Valley rises up the Rwenzori range, the highest in Uganda. It's a stunning landscape, and our hotel (Twin Lakes Lodge) was perched right on the edge of the escarpment, looking out over Queen. I've seen an elephant right from my balcony before! Our family loved the location and the hotel, and we were able to dine two nights with the owner of Twin Lakes, the Honorable Katurebe, a Supreme Court justice for Uganda.
We visited Jim's old stomping grounds of Kichwamba in Ruburizi district and visited all the wonderful kids at House of Love. We also visited his old house and the whole neighborhood came out to greet us! His old site is one of the most stunning places in the country, the village looks out over Queen Elizabeth and has crater lakes sprinkled around.
 The next morning we met James, our lion-tracking guide and researcher. He and a German researcher study the lion population in Queen Elizabeth and have tagged the lions in the park with collars. We were able to drive near to two lions mating, and view two other groups of lions. Their social hierarchy is fascinating, but unfortunately lion numbers in the park are plummeting due to poaching. We had a fancy-schmancy lunch at Mweya Safari Lodge before heading off to the Gazinga Channel boat cruise. The boat cruise was a great way to check out elephants cooling off in the river, crocodiles patiently waiting for their next victim, hippos languishing in the hot mud and giant monitor lizards soaking up some sun. On our game drive that afternoon, a whole herd of elephants crossed in front of us, including a few baby elephants! That night we had dinner at the House of Love, the kids performed for us a few dances they made up. 
We went chimp-trekking the next morning in Kyambura Gorge, a gorgeous and lush gorge that is chock full of cool animals: chimps, crocs, pythons, elephants, hippos, water buffalo, lions, leopards. We hiked around the gorge up and down for a bit but the chimps had already headed into the swamp area to find new fruit. Too late, no chimps! While I was bummed out, my family kept their spirits up and enjoyed being in the lovely gorge. We got close to some hippos who were guffawing at us. 

Everyone was near exhausted after a two-week vacation, so we headed back to Lake Bunyonyi's Bird Nest for a night to enjoy a relaxing dinner and send-off. It was so wonderful to have my family here, they were such good sports and good travelers (that includes you Carol!) I was so pleased to have such easy-going and enthusiastic visitors, it made the trip ten times better. Webale munonga!

Claire and I on Lake Kivu
Learning about Lake Bunyonyi's history

Grand tour of my primary school
 




Lillian on the infamous Bushara island rope swing

The "lope swing!"
My family at my house in Bukinda. A proud moment for them to see where I've lived for 2 years.

Jim and his mom Carol outside his old house in Kichwamba



Brad, Carol, Tina at a hike to Lake Kamunzuku. 
Morning in Queen Elizabeth

Our lodge at Twin Lakes Safari Lodge, looking out over QENP

Coffee tour at Volcanoes Safari Lodge Eco-center
Claire spotting for lions

Lions!

Kazinga channel boat cruise

Elephants bathing in Kazinga Channel. Watch out for crocs!






Chimp trekking in Kyambura Gorge



Late evening game drive



The Linghams at the Equator! 
The Lingham sisters together again







Friday, 13 December 2013

How to Save a Life

Merry Christmas everyone and happy holidays! I'll be spending yet another Christmas in this tropical, equatorial country, quietly pretending the palm trees are really pine trees.

I'm going to make this post very short and to the point: I am posting a link to donate money to our friend and colleague, Fred Kiyingi, who needs a liver transplant. He is our Safety and Security Officer for Peace Corps Uganda, and has done an amazing job at keeping volunteers safe and secure. He is the first person in my phonebook because he's the first person I'd call if anything happened. He was also very instrumental in the fatal car accident last May. He was their first phone call and has been up in Gulu once a month making sure that justice is served. We call him the "James Bond" of Uganda because he's been known to get to a mob in 4 minutes to rescue volunteers.
Fred has an aggressive form of liver cancer and needs to travel immediately to India for the operation. Volunteers and RPCVs all over Uganda and the world have been fundraising and we're almost at $10,000, but we need $15,000. Please help us get there! Thank you and Merry Christmas.

(Please note, if you choose to support Fred Kiyingi, select the Peace Corps Emergency Relief Fund from the drop down menu and specify that the donation is for Fred Kiyingi in the Tribute/In Honor of field to ensure your donation goes to him and not to the Peace Corps Emergency Relief general fund.)

https://www.facebook.com/howtosavefredslife

Monday, 25 November 2013

A Year in Retrospect

Mid-year decoding test for my P4 students
I'm back at Kulika, in central Uganda, in mid-November except this time I'm here as a trainer, not a trainee. Our new group of Education volunteers have just arrived in country and I'm here as a technical trainer for positive reinforcement, teaching in Uganda and making instructional materials. We having PST (pre-service training) at the same locations as last year so it feels a bit like I'm going back in time. So much has happened in the past 12 months, but at the same time, I can't believe a year has passed since I first arrived to the green rolling hills of Uganda. We are the first Education group to pilot this program with a heavy focus on literacy at the primary level. With this second group, we've had a lot of opportunities to share our wisdom, best practices and lessons learned, and encourage them to try new things. I'm very excited for them to start at their sites in January because they're going to be rockstars! Next week we move to a new site to start our school-based practice and I will have the pleasure of observing hours upon hours of observing lessons. 
A little of what's been happening in the past month-- I attended an HIV conference in Masaka in early November to discuss new projects and cross-sector collaboration. The conference was extremely helpful and informative, but mostly highlighted what an incredibly complex disease we're talking about. There's a massive difference between tackling malaria and HIV, since the latter revolves around sex. As soon as sex gets involved, things get complicated. Think about how many issues revolve sex, especially in a religious country. We got into all sorts of issues: gender-based violence, controversy around condoms, the church's role in advocating for abstinence and its ineffectiveness, power imbalance and the role of women, homosexuality, taboo around wearing condoms or male circumcision, etc. There are so many issues around this disease; it highlighted for me just how complex and difficult it is to tackle. Especially in a country where people refuse to talk about or advocate for condoms! 
It did get me jumpstarted on starting a life-skills club at my school next year with my fellow teacher, and teaching HIV curriculum after school. 

Halloween was also a blast, we all migrated out to Mbale in the East to celebrate for a 2-night event. Our friends organized the Hallloween party in a fantastic cave near Sipi Falls. Mbale is at the base of Mount Elgon and it very mountainous and beautiful-- the scenery around Mbale reminded me a lot of Grenoble's vistas. 


I'll be training with our new group until mid-December and then it's Christmas and New Year's when my sister Claire comes to visit! 

Tuesday, 1 October 2013

Ok Please

Back in the saddle! The months of August and September have flown by and I'm sad to say that I haven't written in two months. August was filled with birthday festivities (including a bada$$ safari on horseback, thanks to my boyfriend), finishing up the term at school and preparing to go back home for a short visit. It's strange to think that I actually went home, it feels like a dream--a wonderful, Target-filled (I mean…family-filled) dream. I had a week to myself before my boyfriend Jim arrived to meet my family and come to the much-anticipated family wedding. The real impetus for my trip home was to attend my cousin Liz and Tig's wedding, an event that's been on the calendar for over a year. Some may recall that before I left for the Peace Corps, I was dead set on staying in Uganda for my service and not making the trip home. Well, circumstances changed and my family and I decided that a wedding was a great excuse to come home.
Heathbrook
My first meal in country? Sushi. Something you certainly can't get in Uganda. My parents immediately whisked me up to New Hampshire to our cabin, but not without picking up my best friend Andrea, in town from New York. What a fun weekend-- filled with hiking, boating, story-telling, visiting with aunts and uncles, and a new card game Ligretto. And oh, the wine! And the beer! To have good draught beer was such a treat. 
Waterskiing on Silver Lake!
We visited all week with friends and family, and I felt so lucky to have so many friends involved in our lives. I visited six states (six!) in two weeks-- MA, NH, ME, RI, CT and NY. I spent a few nights in Brooklyn, NY with Andrea, and was introduced to a very charming, lovely side of Brooklyn. We went for a Sunday afternoon bike ride, took a ferry (free!) to Governor's Island and had a perfect pique-nique. Jim arrived the following day and was immediately thrown into our typical family mayhem once we got back to Boston. We had a beautiful day of waterskiing, tubing and boating on Silver Lake, and then crazy lightning storms the following day. Our family joke goes that we try and maim the boyfriends at least once during their stay. One boyfriend involved a nearly fatal wood-chopping incident, with Jim, it was almost getting struck by lightning. Welcome to the family--you survived!

Family photo! (all we're missing are the matching white turtlenecks)
Me and Jim 
The wedding weekend in Maine was a blast-- I saw all my lovable cousins, including my twin cousins for the first time in years. We couldn't even remember how long it's been, which is funny because the three of us used to be inseparable when we were kids. The whole family was back together, the only person we were missing was my grandmother, who passed away in June. We talked all weekend about her, shared a few tears, and did our best Grandma impressions. At the reception,  my cousin Liz played a voicemail that my grandmother had left a year ago, and left our whole side of the tent in blubbering sobs. If we weren't all crying so hard, we probably would have been laughing at how much noise we made. The after-party was an upscale pig-roast; we were all wearing our pretty dresses with rainboots from all the mud. Maine-style!

Cousin photo, in order of height, just as Grandma would have done!
It was great to be back together, all 10 cousins, just like old times. The whirlwind weekend was over as soon as it began.

I'm back now in Uganda and I have to say, it felt really good to be back... at first. As soon as I landed in Entebbe, I could smell the fresh rain and loved the cool night air. It smelled like Uganda--I really can't put my finger on what that smell is, but it's a combination of roasted meat and burning trash (and some other things, they don't really come to mind now. The best time to figure this out is when you get off the plane). I missed the smell, I missed the constant sense of adventure in this country that you just don't get in America. As nice as it was to be home, I realized that my place is here, for now.

We had a few nice surprises when we got home from a month away. Our water was no longer running, our water tank was bone dry and our cat, Captain Cuddles, had run away. Welcome home!


*Title of this post comes from the funny way Ugandans use the word "please" for everything. Usually when you order something off a menu, and the server responds "Ok thank you please."

Monday, 29 July 2013

Babies Holding Babies

 We recently celebrated our six-months-at-site anniversary, so I thought it would be a good time for a little update on life here in Uganda. Things at school don't seem to have changed a wink since I've been here, so that's promising. Only kidding-- obviously I won't see any results in six months, maybe not even a year or my entire service in Peace Corps, but it still feels disheartening. Luckily we have a wonderful boss who is our cheerleader and always there to pick up our spirits, and remind us that we'll probably fail 100 different times before we get it right. A 6-month slump is totally normal as a PCV, but it doesn't make it any easier to get through. 
A bunch of Volunteers from the Southwest got together this weekend for a mzungu getaway on Lake Bunyonyi, and it was nice to know that we're all in the same boat (no pun intended). Everyone is experiencing some sort of frustration at their sites and schools, we're not alone in this struggle. I was deeply disturbed last week when a bunch of pupils were caned for looking unkempt and not washing their shirts on Wednesday, or not bathing. It's a cruel punishment for something that can be easily remedied or taught. The worst part? Every week there are new (or the same) pupils who are unclean, and they still get caned. So how is the caning teaching anyone a lesson? Wouldn't it be better to motivate them with an incentive?

After nine months in country, we all adopted an unhealthy amount of Uganglish, such as using the word "somehow" for almost anything. "How was your weekend?" "It was somehow." Or: "I'm somehow close to Rwanda." Or: using the phase "some small" for a little bit. Salt? Just some small.
Or: "Are you feeling any better?" "I am feeling some some." 
We entertain ourselves by thinking what massive weirdos we're going to be when we return home in two years. Just the other day, we met a cantankerous Brit who thought his ears deceived him when we said we were here for two years. "Two years?!", he gulped. "That's how long they sent convicts to Australia for!" 
Yup, well, that's my reality. There's are so many short-term volunteers who come to Uganda for "voluntourism" that two years seems like an eternity compared to four weeks. In reality, if you truly want to have a meaningful impact here, the longer the better. Some projects are short-term and sustainable, such as building a water tank for a school, but most volunteers feel fantastic having taught Nursery kids the Hokey-Pokey (I'm really poking fun at myself, since that's the majority of what I did in India during my stint as a "voluntourist"). 

One of my favorite pastimes is to observe the various signage around this country. On matatus, on T-shirts, on trucks. And sexually ambiguous outfits, usually where males strut around in clothing that was intended for women. Yesterday I saw a young sebo wearing a T-shirt with the words "Pussy Power" and hot pink skinny jeans. La classe! My friends have even started a fashion blog in Uganda, taking pictures of sebos who are accidentally hipster.

It's been an unusually dry "dry season", and a severe drought has taken place all across Uganda. This place was the greenest place I'd ever seen when I arrived in country; now the hills all around my site are brown, barren and dusty. We need rain desperately. One of our PCV's site is so dry that they might have to cancel school, they are completely out of water and can't function.
The locals all tell us the rain will arrive on August 15th. Not the 16th, not the 14th of August. The 15th. I think they really mean mid-August, but I like their scientific calculation of when the rains will come. Usually during dry season, there are some sprinklings here and there, but there hasn't been a drop of rain in 3 months. My garden plot has withered up, my sprouting vegetables have completed shriveled and sunken into the earth. "Too much sun! Omushana munonga!" the locals tell me. My fault for planting during dry season, tsk tsk. But life has a funny, ironic way about it; despite my garden drying up and producing zero vegetables, tomato plants that no one planted are alive and well, and thriving around my sewage tank. Thank you, nature.  
And oh, the dust! How I wish for rain just to wash away the red dust that has creeped into every corner of my house (and it seems every orifice of my body). My house would be a housemaid's nightmare-- it requires dusting about 3 times a day. Everything is coated with a thin layer of red dust that blows in off the road, looking like only ghosts have lived here for the last decade. Our cat certainly doesn't help-- Captain Cuddles' favorite pastime is to literally roll around in the dust, and then drag it into our house for cuddle time. No wonder why he always has a reddish glow to him.

While things are slow at home and school, there's a lot in the pipeline to look forward to. I recently wrote a SPA (small project assistance) grant for our Education Volunteers to each receive a BASE Pack (see my post called "Muzungus in the Mist" about using the BASE pack to lead a teambuilding and teacher training exercise), in time for the next school year. The BASE Pack is a custom-made backpack designed by the King's Foundation (based in the UK), and filled with objects to do teambuilding exercises, such as a parachute, cricket ball, tennis balls, cones, bean bags, jump rope, even bands that serve as sashes for the team with the most spirit. 
These packs are major incentives for our students, and very instrumental for building positive behavior systems at school. One of our major challenges as a group is introducing positive reinforcement, as opposed to caning as a form of punishment. While caning may not be entirely phased out from school for a long time, we can still have a system built in where 100 students are rewarded for showing up on time, and get to play with the BASE Pack games. 
I'm also part of a grant that will fund volunteers to get materials for workstations to work on literacy with our students, at any age level. I'm already doing some of that at my school, but having more money to buy materials, book shelves, a reading table, will make it even more solid. At school, I work everyday with a small group of upper primary students. We make time for Buddy Reading, giving every pupil a chance to pick out a book from our stocked library (I am very lucky in that my school has received a truckload of donated children's books from various sources). Buddy Reading time warms my heart because it's great to see two kids huddled together outside in the grass, reading a book together. Reading for fun isn't really a thing here-- if you're going to read a book here, it's for study, not for pleasure. I'm not sure I can ever change that, but at least giving them some time everyday to read aloud to a friend is wonderful. Next we do word-work activities that play with sounds, diphthongs and vowel sounds. We build words and play games, write on slates or even just play "Duck, Duck, Goose." While my small reading groups are fun, I always worry Will the kids be better readers after two months working with me? I don't want to get my hopes up that when I assess them with the same reading assessment at the start of the term, their scores will be markedly higher. It could be that I'm doing this all wrong and our Library time has resulted in zero improvement. 
But I want to end this post on a good note! Not only am I turning 25 next week, I will be home in America for a short visit in a month! I dream of America…but my dreams usually involve being really overwhelmed by grocery stores, and fruits + veg being absurdly overpriced compared to here. But it's still the land o' freedom, and I can't wait. 
Stay tuned! 

*The title of this post derives from seeing small children, as young as 4, somehow holding even smaller babies. It's pretty entertaining. 

Friday, 12 July 2013

May The Fourth Be With You


Peace Corps Goal #3: Share American culture with others in your community (or something like that)…check. The night before July 4th, Caitlin and I threw down for an American bash and invited our Ugandan friends from the PTC. How did we get this idea, you ask? Well we told one of the PTC officials that we were going to Fort Portal to celebrate with over half the PCVs in Uganda, to which he responds, "Why don't you celebrate here with us?!"
Me and my counterparts: Bright & Constance
It was a nice opportunity to share with them how we celebrate our day of independence, cook some American food (other than cookies-- they all thought for months that's all we ate because it was the only thing we brought them) and show them some muzungu dance moves. 
Me and Caitlin with Asaph, our dance champion!
We have four Irish girls on campus for a few weeks, here for a teaching program. They are so crafty and sweet, and brought us a bunch of homemade goodies, including an American flag, a poster proclaiming "Happy Independence Day", red white and blue flags, and yarn bracelets. 
We slaved away all afternoon to make pasta salad, potato salad, guacamole and chips, snickerdoodles and fruit salad.
Do the twist! Dancin' up a storm


As the evening wore on, it turned typically Ugandan and turned into a massively fun dance party. Caitiln and I modeled how to do the twist-- Pulp Fiction style. One of the administrators at the college, Asaph, gave it a go and was an absolute riot. He looked like a robot dancing on stilts. Pretty soon, we were all up and dancing in our living room, swing dancing to old Beatles and James Brown songs. As a housewarming gift, my counterpart gave us a giant American flag that is proudly hanging in our house.

Happy Fourth everyone!